Spain’s secret art island

I thought I knew Spain’s art scene pretty well. After more than two decades of visits, I’d checked off the heavy hitters: Madrid’s grand museums (hello, Prado, Reina Sofia, and Thyssen!), Bilbao’s architectural Guggenheim icon, Barcelona’s Gaudi and Picasso-filled spaces. I figured I’d seen the country’s best canvases, sculptures, and gallery spaces.